The key word for Vogue’s January 2020 issue is values. Interpret that as you may: monetary, ethical, sentimental. Every definition relates to the big picture: that fashion needs to reassess its value system, and quickly. We have to change the way money is invested and spent; we have to shop with brands whose values reflect our own; and we have to change the way we assign value to what we buy and wear.
Let’s start by working backward, because I think that last part is actually the most important. In fashion, the inverse of value might be disposability: If your T-shirt costs less than your Starbucks latte, you probably won’t think twice about throwing it out when it rips. Value isn’t just about price, of course; you might cherish a $50 vintage dress more than a designer bag. But therein lies the difference: You value the dress because it’s rare, or because it’s by a certain designer, or simply because it has a story. It may even be more valuable now than it was 30 years ago. Your old T-shirt, on the other hand, is hardly a treasure—and who would want it, anyway? It’s stained, it’s got holes, it’s no longer bright white.
T-shirts are among several “high-frequency basics” that tend to have a single, very short life; underwear, athletic clothes, and shoes fall into the category too. They’re items you wear through quickly, can’t be resold, and are too dingy to be donated, so they inevitably end up in the trash. An estimated 50 million tons of clothing is discarded every year, and most of it will not biodegrade in a landfill. (Synthetic materials like polyester or nylon can also leach chemicals into the earth, and if they’re incinerated, they may become carcinogenic.) The amount of time, energy, and resources that go into those trashed items is usually disproportionate to their quick turnaround; a single cotton T-shirt may require up to 700 gallons of water and may travel across several countries during production. But even if it’s stained or damaged at the end of its life, it could likely be recycled into something else, like housing insulation or even another T-shirt.
Making that clear to consumers will be key to making fashion more sustainable in the future. We’re phasing out single-use plastic and paper bags from our lives, and we should think about our clothes the same way. What will happen to this T-shirt, handbag, or sneaker when I’m done with it? In the long term, it should ultimately change the way we shop, because we’ll only buy things with legitimate value and a feasible end use.
“We need to get used to looking at things and understanding that nothing actually goes ‘away’ [when we throw it out]—there is no ‘away,’” explains Stacy Flynn, the CEO of Evrnu. She came to that realization nearly a decade ago on a sourcing trip in China, where she found herself in a factory town so polluted she couldn’t see her colleague standing next to her through the smog. “I realized how impactful and damaging our industry is to the environment, and began adding up all the millions of yards of fabric I’d made over the course of my career…. I was contributing to the problem,” she says. She launched Evrnu in 2015 and recently unveiled a groundbreaking technology that breaks cotton waste down into a liquid, then remakes it into stronger, higher-performing fibers. A recent Adidas x Stella McCartney collaboration included a hoodie made from Evrnu’s regenerated cotton. “Cotton and polyester make up 90% of all clothing, and both fibers require tremendous amounts of resources,” Flynn says. “Consumers throw away about 80% of their textiles directly in the garbage. We knew if there was a way to take that waste, break it down into a polymer, and build it back up to a new fiber, that would be the lynchpin of reducing our industry’s impact.”
For all of the benefits of natural and organic cotton, hemp, linen, rayon, and so on, it’s almost always better to use what already exists. A key point in the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s A New Textiles Economy is that fashion must phase out nonrenewable resources and move toward renewable, regenerative inputs. It’s only recently that regenerated fibers have been commercially available, though; Evrnu’s regenerated cotton is still in its prototype stage. Flynn said it will be commercialized next year and in the market by 2021. Next, her team is working on breaking down and rebuilding polyester, followed by recoverable stretch (e.g., athletic gear), then bio-based and engineered fibers (like rayon and Tencel).
“As I start to future-cast for 2025, I think this will be the new normal,” she says. “All of the products we create today will have value in the future and will naturally come back into the system. I can see a world in which consumers don’t even own the things they wear—it will be almost like a lease, where they keep it as long as they want, then return it to the owner, and it’s either regenerated or leased out again. And there’s value in the product when it comes back into the system. I think that’s the biggest catchphrase—that the product has value when it’s being designed. If there is value in the product I’m wearing today, and it will be recreated as a high-quality product tomorrow, that has an incredibly powerful business effect,” she continues. “I actually think it’s one of the greatest design challenges of our century—how we take things from one form to another, with no loss of value.”
The full article read on the Vogue
时尚的未来是循环的：为什么 2020 年代将要用旧衣服制造新衣服 (VOGUE)
《 Vogue》 2020 年 1 月号的关键词是价值观。尽可能解释一下：金钱，道德，感性。每个定义都与大局
你的 T 恤的价格低于星巴克拿铁咖啡的价格，那么当它已经破旧的时候，你可能想都不想就扔掉了。当然，
价值不仅仅是价格。相比于大牌包你可能更珍惜 50 美元的复古连衣裙。但区别在于：你对这件衣服的重视
是因为它很少见，或者是由某个设计师设计的，或者仅仅是因为它有故事。现在它甚至比 30 年前更有价
值。另一方面，你的旧 T 恤根本称不上是宝物，无论如何，谁会想要呢？它弄脏了，有洞，不再是亮白色
物品，无法转售，而且太脏都无法捐赠，因此不可避免地会丢入垃圾桶。每年估计有 5000 万吨的衣物被
不成比例。 ;一件纯棉 T 恤可能需要 700 加仑的水，并且在生产过程中可能会在多个国家/地区旅行。但
是，即使使用寿命结束时弄脏或损坏了它，也有可能将其回收再利用，例如隔离外墙或变成另一件 T 恤。
我们应该以同样的方式考虑衣服。这件 T 恤、手提包或运动鞋在使用后会怎样？从长远来看，它最终将改
Evrnu 首席执行官 Stacy Flynn 解释说：“我们需要习惯观察事物，并知道什么都不会消失（当我们将其
固，性能更高的纤维。 Adidas x Stella McCartney 最近的一项合作包括用 Evrnu 的再生棉制成的连帽
衫。 “棉和涤纶占全部服装的 90％，而这两种纤维都需要大量资源，” Flynn 说。 “消费者将大约 80％
克阿瑟基金会（Ellen MacArthur Foundation）的“新纺织品经济”的关键点在于，时尚必须逐步淘汰不
可再生资源，并转向可更新，可再生的投入。不过，直到最近，再生纤维才可以在市场上买到。 Evrnu 的
再生棉仍处于原型阶段。 Flynn 表示，它将在明年和 2021 年投放市场。接下来，她的团队将致力于分解
她说：“当我开始展望 2025 年，我认为这将是新的常态。我们今天创建的所有产品都将在未来具有价值，并将自然地重新融入系统。我可以看到一个世界，在这个世界中，消费者甚至都不拥有自己穿的衣服-这几乎就像是一份租约，他们只要愿意就可以保留它，不然将其退还给所有者，并且可以重新生成或出租出去再次。当产品重新回到系统中时，它便具有了价值。我认为这是最大的口号，即产品在设计时就具有价值。如果我今天穿的产品有价值，并且明天将其重新制造成高质量的产品，那将产生令人难以置信的强大商业效应。”她继续说道。 “我实际上认为这是本世纪最大的设计挑战之一，即如何将事物从一种形式转换为另一种形式，而又不损失任何价值。”
The full article read on the Vogue