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FashionTech Runway: 2018 Spring Couture Iris Van Herpen's LUDI NATURAE

January 26, 2018

Photo courtesy of Iris Van Herpen

 

 

LUDI NATURAE - With 'Ludi Naturae', Iris van Herpen examines the natural and manmade landscapes of our world from a bird’s-eye view, tracing the laws of entropy.


Inspiration was found from surveying the intricate aerial photography by Thierry Bornier, and Andy Yeung, among others. This is a response to Van Herpen’s earlier work, for which she meditated on the world’s formations from a microscopic point of view.

“I zoomed out to look at the earth’s skin, trying to find the forces behind the forms. Looking from this perspective, I felt inspired by the patterns of chaos and order, nature and civilization blending into infinite hybrids.”

Following the original inspiration, Van Herpen collaborated with the Dutch artist Peter Gentenaar, who is known for capturing ‘organic memory’ and motion in his delicate large-scale cellulose sculptures. For this show, Gentenaar created a site-specific floating installation that blossoms around the garments as the models move.

‘Ludi Naturae’ is vivid and optimistic, sheer and delicate, fusing the artificial with the organic. The collection blends a natural color palette of blurred and faded greens, yellows, blues and purples with skin colors and blacks.

The 21 silhouettes feature boundary-pushing construction and innovative material techniques like ‘Foliage’, a process initiated with the Delft University of Technology in which leaf-like patterns are 3D printed as thin as 0.8 mm and tulle is laid into the 3D printer to print directly onto the fabric,  creating exceptional softness. 


‘Data Dust’, in which parametric patterns are computationally distorted, foam-lifted, laser-cut and then heat-bonded onto an invisible silk tulle, create radiant glitches. 


For the ‘Entropy’ process, nude leather and liquid fabric are bonded to mylar, individually lasercut into perforated diminishing patterns, to then be interwoven to form interlocking gradients from leather to voluminous drape.

 

 

时尚科技秀场: Iris Van Herpen2018 春季高定秀 LUDI NATURAE

 

LUDI NATURAE – 通过 Ludi Naturae,Iris van Herpen 从上帝视角审视着我们世界的自然和人造景 观,追寻熵的规律。

灵感来源于 Thierry Bornier 和 Andy Yeung 等人的错综复杂的航空摄影。这是对 Van Herpen 早期工作 的回应,她从微观的角度冥想了世界的形态。

“我拉远了来看地球的皮肤,试图找到形式背后的力量。从这个角度看,我感受到混乱与秩序模式所带来 的灵感,自然与文明融合成为无限混合。“

在原创灵感之后,Van Herpen 与荷兰艺术家 Peter Gentenaar 合作,他以精致的大型纤维素雕塑捕捉“有 机记忆”和运动而闻名。在这个展会上,Gentenaar 创建了一个特定场地的浮动装置,这个装置会随着模 特的移动在服装周围开花。
“Ludi Naturae”生动乐观,纯粹细腻,融合了人造与有机。该系列融合了模糊和渐变的绿色、黄色、蓝 色、紫色与裸色和黑色混合的天然调色板。

21 剪影功能边界推移建筑和创新材料科技,如“叶子”,由代尔夫特理工大学合作开发,叶状图案被 3D 打印成 0.8 毫米,薄纱放入 3D 打印机直接印在织物上,创造出非凡的柔软度。


“数据碎片“,参数化图案被计算改造,泡沫提拉,激光切割,然后热粘合到一个看不见的丝绸薄纱上, 创造出光芒四射的毛绒感。
至于“熵”过程,裸皮和液体织物被粘合到聚酯薄膜上,被单独激光切割成网眼小图案,然后交织形成从 皮革过渡到大量垂摆的渐变起伏织物。

 

 

 

 

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